Quick Post - Map

Karen had a good idea... I should add a map so folks know where we've been.


Note that the map I've used has variations on the spelling of some names and doesn't have all the localities.

I have used a different colour for each day's travel.

27 April - Olympia-Home of the Olympic Games

A short bus ride from our hotel to the ancient site of Olympia. 

We walked through the area of the gymnasium (which was large enough to allow athletes to train for the 192m sprint).  Some stone and a little marble!

Next we visited the Temple of Zeus and the Temple of Hera (his wife).  Near the alter to Hera is where the Olympic Torch is lit before travelling the world to the next games site.  More stone and lots more marble!

Cheat's Plinths

Next we approached the ancient stadium.  Just outside was a line of plinths.  These were where statues of cheats were placed.  The plinth would record the cheat's name, event and village.  There was no forgive and forget happening here!  More stone!

In the starting blocks! 350BC style.

We then walked down the tunnel (or what's left of it) into the stadium.  Some trivia we picked up about the games: when the games were on, the states of Greece had to cease warring in order to compete; only men competed in the games... and they competed naked; some of the events could result in death; women were not allowed to watch the games... going by the statues I know why!


We then visited the Olympia Museum... some of the exhibits were just amazing!!  The skill of the craftsmen who made the statues was incredible!!  Hopefully, the photos will give you some idea.  You guessed it.. more stone and lots, lots more marble!!

After, Olympia we visited a Greek Korean War veteran who has a private museum.  He was a very proud man who, with his wife, opened his house/museum for us to have a look.

Greek Swiss?

Then we were off to Delphi to visit the Oracle.  On the way we drove through Patra and crossed a magnificent suspension bridge which spans the western mouth of the Gulf of Corinth.  We approached Delphi in the evening... as we increased our altitude we passed through wisps of cloud and mist. The town of Delphi is perched halfway up the mountain and had the feel of a Swiss town (well, it met my idea of a Swiss town... given I've never been to Switzerland!).  Our room in the hotel looked over the valley which was full of olive groves with the odd dark green cypress pine sticking through.

What a view, eh!

April 26 - The wheels on the bus go round

The bus tour begins!  The plan is to travel south from Athens, through Piraeus (Athen’s Port), across the Corinth Canal, to Navplion, to Kalamata and finish in Olympia. 

 

The Commonwealth soldiers who were sent to Greece mostly arrived through the port of Piraeus.  They initially stayed in Camp Daphne (just outside of Piraeus).  We didn’t stop… just did a ‘drive by’ on these locations. 

 

We did stop at the Corinth Canal. The Canal itself is a significant late 19 century engineering feat!  An Hungarian engineering team designed the project and the Greeks built it. The purpose of the canal was to save ‘sailing’ time for ships (it reduced the trip to Piraeus by 130 nautical miles)

 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corinth_Canal 

 In 1941 (late in the campaign) as the Commonwealth troops were withdrawing it was feared that the Peloponnesian peninsula would be cut off.  The bridge across the canal was a strategic location.  The Germans thought so too, they attempted a combined glider and airborne operation to secure the bridge by coup de main.  A mixed force of Commonwealth troops held the Germans for a while but when it appeared the Germans were going to capture the bridge… the bridge was destroyed.  This kept the bridge out of German hands and allowed the allied troops some ‘breathing space’.  Unfortunately, it also cut off about 18,000 allied troops.

We looked at the area where the landings and attack occurred.  There was discussion about how defences were laid out etc… 

Onwards… Navplion was an evacuation port, and importantly for us… lunch stop!  Navplion was an ordinary little port town.  Of course it had its own Acropolis, a Venetian castle and another 16 century harbour fort.  The ATM didn’t work though!

From Navplion we went over the mountains. The road was steep and winding.  In 1941 it was equally as steep, a bit more winding and the young drivers mostly drove under ‘blackouts’ (ie lights covered, with only small slits of white light to see by and equally, or less, red tail lights to follow). We did the trip in a little over an hour… under blackouts, in 41 model trucks it probably took 6+ hours (all night- because the German Air Force were shooting at anything that moved during the day).

We drove through valleys that were covered (almost) with olive orchards.  The leaves of the olive tree are coloured… olive green (my favourite colour!) and the underside is a white-ish colour.  When the breeze blows the leaves it gives the olive trees a silvery sort of shimmer.   

There also a lot of wild flowers: small white and yellow daisies, dandelions, and red poppies (they seem very relevant given the purpose of the tour and Anzac Day).

There is a fair number pistachio orchards as well.  These will have a male tree (bigger, greener, and doesn’t bear fruit or is that nuts!) surrounded by about half a dozen female trees (these do bear fruit).  There were a number of citrus (orange/lemon) orchards also but nowhere near as many as the olive trees. Kalamata… olives, must be a connection!

We viewed the jetty at Kalamata where 20000+ Commonwealth soldiers were evacuated. The Germans actually got close enough to attack the jetty. A Kiwi sergeant led a counter-attack that restored order… he was awarded a Victoria Cross for his actions. Onwards to Olympia!

Our overnight stop was just outside the town of Olympia.  Olympia is where the very first Olympic games were conducted some 2350 years ago! 

PS. Now that we are on the move we may encounter some not so strong WiFi.  Please be patient, we will get the blog out!

25 April - Anzac Day Athens 2011

Early to rise! 4ish!

The central flower bed of the Cemetery.

Australian Fallen

We travelled to Phaleron War Cemetery (part way between Athens and Piraeus)!  Several hundred Australian, New Zealander, British, Indian and other Commonwealth war dead lay buried in the cemetery... a gift of land from the the People of Greece.  Piraeus is the harbour of Athens and was the site of considerable air attack by the Germans... both as the Commonwealth sort to lodge forces and moreso as the Commonwealth withdrew forces.

The tour convenors had arranged for the Dawn Service.  We were joined by some students from West Australia and by some other Australians and Greeks. The Service followed the familiar pattern: some prayers for peace, some singing 'Abide with Me', some speeches, wreath laying, some more prayers and singing of National Anthems.  Whilst this sounds functionary... there is something moving, more intense, just special about conducting such a service amongst those you are remembering!  A reading of names, ages and epitaphs brings home the reality that the loss was in real people who had hopes, aspirations and families.  They are typically young but not all... some'old men' of 30+ lay amongst their young peers.

I was asked to provide a brief address (fortunately, this was not a surprise like the previous day's events).  Whilst of course Anzac Day draws upon the events of 25 April 1915, it commemorates all those who have provided service to their country and sacrificed their lives, their health or just part of their lives.  There are several connections and parallels between the Gallipoli Campaign and the Greek Campaign.  So I talked about the 25 April 1941...  on this night (24/25 Apr) evacuations had begun in Greece; soldiers were being brought into embarkation points where they would wait for 'the word' to go to the port or beach and board a launch or landing craft; there was fear that the rearguards may not hold the enemy back; there were fears that if the ships did not get away early enough before dawn then German aircraft would attack (as they did); there was disappointment that they had not held the Germans back; there was fear for what would happen to the people of Greece.  Amongst this situation, young men and women of the Commonwealth behaved in an orderly fashion (mostly).  The Royal Navy, including Australian and New Zealand ships, were exceptional in their drive to evacuate as many as they could (ultimately the Navy paid a high price in shipping and crews).

The George Negus 6.30 Report has had a crew with us for a couple of days and they provided coverage for the Anzac Day report... see link for Youtube copy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=su-sK2DjREU

After the Dawn Service we returned to the hotel for breakfast... a bit of a nap for some!  Then it was back to Phaeleron for the Embassy Anzac Day Service at 1100h. This attracted a few more people...  a good turn out of Defence Attaches and representatives from several embassies.  The Greek Navy provided a guard and the Greek Army provided a band. The Service was conducted well but it all seemed tobe a bit hurried!

Ambassador's Lunch

After the Service, we were invited to the Australian Embassy lunch, in the Posiedon Room (a bit of a recurring Navy theme was emerging!).  Lunch was nice, and I endeavoured to drink what red wine the Ambassador had laid on.  There were a few others who were knocking the 'red' back at an impressive rate. There seemed to be more people at the lunch/reception than who had attended the service (excluding guard/band)!

All up, a moving day... the services were done with dignity... and due thanks was offered to those who occupied the ground we visited!

24 April - The Presidential Guard

 A late start for the day (some of the Devout members of the tour group attended the Easter midnight Mass and earnt a sleep in... and there were other slackers who just opted for the sleep in... I'll let you guess which group Karen and I were in!).

The tour group assembled in the foyer for a short walk to the barracks of the Presidential Guard (these are the soldiers who guard the tomb of the uunknown soldier, the President's residence and other key locations).  Our group was priveleged to be able to share the Guard's family day.  We congregated outside and then Brigadier Jeffrey (so much for keeping a low profile!) was invited to meet the Commanding Officer (this was a complete, but pleasant, surprise!!!).  The CO was a delightful gentleman who had an affinity to Australians... having been born in Sydney!

The CO invited the whole group for a briefing on the history, role and conditions of service for his unit.  He commenced the briefing with a very warm, genuine and heartfelt welcome. He reminded us of the gratitude of the Greek people... as 'only Australians, New Zealanders and British have shed blood with Greeks'!  [for those new to the blog... 75% of the tour group are descendants of Australian soldiers who fought in Greece in 1941].  He was very respectful and thankful.

Presidential Guard (Evzones) link


At the conclusion of the briefing, the CO presented me with a plaque (adding to the surpises of the day) and he also presented the group with a plaque. I intend to give the plaque to an appropriate organisation/group so that it might be seen by many (ie possibly the Australian War Memorial or the Australian-Hellenic group?).  I presented the CO with a Commander 11th Brigade 'coin'... there was an odd irony in this because one side of the coin has the 11th Brigade crest and colour patch, the obverse has a Spartan helmet atop crossed swords (the 'Spartan Award' was introduced into 11th Brigade to promote higher standards of fitness).  On presentation, I explained the symbolism and I think the CO was quite taken by the linkage.

At the Head Table...

After the briefing and presentation we joined the Guard and their families for lunch.  Last of the surprises... guess where Karen and I got to sit! Yep, the head table with the CO, his charming wife and children and other members of his family.  Karen and I now felt doubly priveleged!!

Lunch was a traditional Greek meal... salad, bread, lamb and wine!  The freshness and subtle differences in spices/flavours means that you don't get tired of this cuisine!!  (I am scaring myself... I sound like one of the 'fops' on My Convicted Masterchef Rules programs!!).  Of course we had to finish with Baklava!

Throughout the dinner there was entertainment!  A soundtrack of traditional Greek music... and members of the Guard performed traditional dances in the variations of traditional costume/uniforms that they wear (summer uniform-white uniform in previous photos; winter uniform-black uniform; and a traditional Cretan uniform).  The soldiers who danced only had two weeks to prepare and they did a fantastic job!!

Cretan Uniform

Winter Uniform

Karen teaching line dancing!

Summer Uniform

Soldiers chosen for the Presidential Guard have to meet strict requirements:
a.  187cm or taller
b.  Well-built
c.  Perfect state of mind
d.  High character and morale
e.  Belief in the Evzones mission [Evzone is the 'rank/title' given to soldiers of the Guard]

We had a wonderful day and felt especially priveleged to have shared the day with the officers, soldiers and families of the Greek Presidential Guard! 

Early to bed... early start for the next day!!

23 April - The Acropolis

A leisurely start (8.30am) for a bus tour of old Athens... we drove by a few sights that we had walked the day before.  BUT... the absolute standout was the visit to the Acropolis (and Parthenon)!! and its outstanding accompanying museum!!

Who would have thought some ancient stones could be so interesting... the Acropolis, in its history, has been a temple to Greek Gods, a church to a couple of Christian faiths, and even a mosque.  It has been raided and vandalised (depending on your point of view) by many diverse nationalities.  Witness the debate about the British Museums controversial possession of artefacts.  The facts and details, I'll leave to Wikipedia:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acropolis_of_Athens

Some photos...

The Parthenon atop the Acropolis

Parthenon

Karen and Peter atop the Acropolis

The Theatre... looking down from Acropolis

The Acropolis from below!

After touring the Acropolis, we made our way down the street (about 200m) to the Museum.  Wow!
The museum has a complex history... where to place it, tied in with the British 'issue', difficulties with building sites in Athens (pretty much... wherever you dig, you have an archeological site)... throw in some passionate Greek celebrities (Melina Mercouri, Vangelis)


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acropolis_Museum

The 'Dig' below the Museum.

The Acropolis Museum

The museum is built on pillars in order to reduce the damage to the sub-surface.  The sub-surface has been archeologically excavated, revealing layers of Athenian cities.  The 'floor' to the museum is transparent glass so that you can view the scene below.  Our guide took us through the museum and she was full of knowledge about the displays.  We would thoroughly recommend having a guide there was just so much more to learn about the displays and Greek culture.

We were just captivated for hours!

Sorry!! no photos from inside... they are not permitted.

*** We currently have a Channel 10 film crew with us.  They are capturing imagery for a George Negus segment on Anzac Day around the world! ***


Did I mention what we had for dinner... we had mousaka, tzadziki, baklava... and of course Greek salad!